My weekend in Luxembourg started like most of my European jaunts: with a Ryanair flight sale. £20 return tickets seemed too good to pass up, and so, knowing very little about the country, I decided to take in Luxembourg City by simply walking as much of it as possible, the same way I love to see any new city. I decided to pick up a Luxembourg Card for €20 which got me free entry into pretty much every attraction AND covered all of my travel, including out of the City and into other towns which was a total bargain, and then set out.
Here’s how I spent a day in Luxembourg:
Made the most of local beers
Luxembourg City has a great selection of bars with personality. We had a great lunch of homemade quiche and salad with a local brew at Konrad – a bar that transforms into a live music venue in the evenings. Our afternoon visit was much quieter, with many cute dogs also chilling out there with their owners; but obviously this excited me just as much as the beer.
If you’re staying closer to the train station area (which is a bit of a red light hot spot, but super nice just a stone’s throw from there), then wander down to Bouneweger Stuff, a beautiful little bar stocked with craft beers, board games and cheese boards to while away the evening.
Took in the history
Luxembourg City has historic buildings and sites spilling out from every corner and you can walk from place to place easily in the space of a day. The views from the Place de la Constitution have vantage points over the Bourbon Plateau and Adolphe Bridge (which sadly was under maintenance whilst I was there), but even looking down is impressive. Luxembourg City is built on levels that you’ll end up walking up and down without realising, but makes it feel like a real labyrinth to get lost in.
Just across the road is Notre-Dame Cathedral; not quite as grand as it’s Parisian cousin, but still beautiful inside, and well worth popping in to.
The most famous historical site in Luxembourg City though is the Casements du Bock. This huge, ancient defence system is a 23km network fort where thousands of soldiers and their horses lived, as well as butcheries, bakeries and candlestick makeries. They go up to 40m into the rock face, and survive because when they were abandoned and set to be demolished, people realised they’d probably collapse a large part of the City if they took them down. So they remain, and they are fascinating.
And if you’ve had enough of all the beautiful old buildings (you weirdo), you can stomp up to Mudam Luxembourg – the stunning modern art museum where the building itself is enough to blow your mind. I adored it.
Looked out on beautiful views
When you think of picturesque, chocolate-box style European views, you’re thinking of Luxembourg. Pastels intermingled with beiges and creams; pointy rooftops with calm waterways flowing through the centre of it whilst soft sunshine pours over sleepy homes. Making my way up to the casemates, we looked out over Chemin de la Corniche, also known as the most Beautiful Balcony in Europe. It looks over the Grund area of the City and made me go all soft-focus, heart-eye emoji.
And if you’re brave, you can head up the Pfaffenthal Lift which looks over the gorgeous viaduct and house beyond. Oh, and it has a glass floor viewing platform, which will put your stomach firmly in your throat.
Walked through vibrant streets
You can weave through the warren-like streets and spot the occasional bit of street art but always seem to stumble across an area showing what real life is like in Luxembourg City. The antiques market in front of the City Palace had a wonderful quartet playing, and the pooches and petals of Place Guillame II square made for a beautiful setting.
Luxembourg City is a place of contrasting modernity and history, easy to roam and undeservedly under the radar. Look out for those bargain flights and make it your next weekend city break.
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